Obet & Del's Coffee

The bags go down to farm and varietal — Zambia from Kateshi Coffee Estate, a multi-producer Heirloom lot out of Sidama, a Nyeri washed at around 1,800 masl — and every page claims weekly small-batch roasting, though not one of them prints a roast date. Ask at the bar who roasted what is in your cup.

• An early start
• A quick excellent cup
• Signature drinks
• A short sit

The retail line runs three single origins, a decaf and a house espresso blend of Kenya and Ethiopia, all at $25 for 12 ounces, with product pages carrying origin, process, roast level, elevation and tasting notes down to estate level on the Zambia. Each page claims weekly small-batch roasting, but none shows a roast date.

High ceilings and exposed brick, curved retro stripes running the walls, wood tables on cushioned seats — a Thai Town room built to hold neighborhood regulars and people who crossed LA for the purple iced coffee. Racing stripes on a wall are not a neutral decision, and the room is better for having made one.